WHAT? WHERE?

Tignes is a high-altitude resort in the Savoie area of France, close to the Italian border and about three hours from Geneva airport. It’s actually a collection of five villages in the Tarentaise Valley, with Tignes Les Brevieres at the base of the Tignes dam at 1550m, followed by Tignes Les Boisses at 1800m, Le Lavachet (2000m), and the two most popular ski destinations Tignes Le Lac and Tignes Val Claret at a lofty 2,100m.

Each village has a different vibe and look, from the authentic Savoyard prettiness of Les Brevieres to the purpose-built, amenity-filled Val Claret. Collectively they’re known for their lively atmosphere, amazing après-ski and brilliant array of activities for all sorts of adrenaline junkies and winter holiday enthusiasts.

Most importantly for skiers though, it’s the snow-sure slopes that make the resort such a popular choice, including the pièce de résistance… the Grande Motte glacier (3,456m) which allows for an amazingly long winter season. Another major bonus is that Tignes is part of the Espace Killy ski area – over 300km of all-level pistes including Val d’Isère, its posh neighbour, so you’ll never get bored. And, with Tignes being such a Mecca for winter fun, it’s no surprise that there are plenty of snow parks and off-piste opportunities if you’re a daredevil.

OFF THE PISTE

You don’t have to be Lindsay Vonn to make the most of a stay in Tignes, because there’s so much more to the place than pistes. If you can’t bear to see snow and not be in it, there are winter activities galore. After full days’ skiing I took part in a bizarre, yet therapeutic activity – ice floating with Alban Michon, a très, très suave extreme explorer who lives in Tignes and runs alpine adventures on the lake (when he’s not swimming with polar bears in the Arctic).

Ice floating involves donning a suit that makes the wearer look like of one of Pixar’s minions and bobbing about in a big hole in the frozen lake, while trying to take sips of warming green tea. The point? Well, once I’d recovered from the endorphin rush I got after doubling over with giggles at the absurdity of it all, I found a state of complete tranquility and serenity as I lay in the lake staring up at the stars with snow sprinkling down on my face. Simply put, it was magical.

For more sporty fun, moon biking is a must-do. It’s a bit like motorbiking on snow (much harder than it sounds) and is absolutely exhilarating. The instructor was another extremely dashing Frenchman, which is my excuse for my lack of concentration on my first attempt at the course. When I went ploughing into a snow drift at full hurtle though I have to say I didn’t mind being rescued one bit.

Party animals will be in their element here, because letting your hair down is hugely encouraged in Tignes. Even this normally rather reserved mum-of-two clambered like a mountain goat onto the table for a quick dance one night at top après-ski bar Cocorico (sorry kids!). What can I say? The atmosphere was electric! There’s also the famous La Folie Douce bar on the Val D’Isère side of the mountain, and a brand new night-club, Strike, that opened in Tignes Le Lac in 2022.

Adventurers and sporty types are well catered for too, with activities like an overnight polar adventure in the heart of the Vanoise National Park, plenty of options for ski touring, full day mountain survival courses, and tandem flights over the mountains.

Even though it’s got good nightlife, Tignes isn’t overrun with overexcitable students and saisonnaires. The resort is a really family-friendly choice, especially since the opening of the vast new Club Med hotel in Val Claret in December 2022.

Le Lacon swimming pool at Tignes — Image: Andy Parant

There’s also a swish new leisure centre, Le Lagon, with flumes to enjoy on afternoons once ski school has finished, organised sledging spots, the chance to walk across the frozen lake, as well as horse and husky-sled rides. You get the idea, basically lapland without Santa. Plus, the fact that nearly all accommodation here is ski in, ski out is a huge bonus for families looking to keep the faff of skiing to a minimum.

Scoff & Quaff

Everyone knows you burn so many calories when you’re skiing that you need carbs, carbs and more carbs, so La Pignatta, a rustic and cosy family-run Italian in Val Claret centre, set us up very nicely indeed for the next day’s skiing. You’re right on the border with Italy here and you can tell by the calibre of the Italian food. A must-try is the Stella Italia, a star-shaped pizza with ham and Buffalo mozzarella.

You can’t go to the Alps without a cheese fondue and the nicest way to enjoy this traditional dish is at lunch after conquering the picture-postcard pretty tree-lined slopes from Val Claret to Les Brevieres. Settle in for a couple of hours round a pot of melted cheese at charming restaurant L’Armailly. Save space if you can for the regional tarte aux myrtilles (wild blueberry tart) for pudding.

For something a little bit special head to Bazurto restaurant inside the new Ÿnÿcio Hotel (more on that below), a hip new South American-inspired restaurant. I was mesmerised by the cool neon ceiling, and loved the vibe – there’s a DJ set every evening until 2am. The South American-inspired food here comes out sharing style, focusses on sustainability (think broccoli guacamole instead of using avocados) and is really exquisite. Top picks include the tacos ceviches crevettes, empanadas, and marinated monkfish with chilli. Adjustable waistband salopettes will be needed the next day.

Finish your culinary tour of the Alps on a high at little known Mendikoa restaurant in Le Lavachet (the village where most people live rather than stay in Tignes).

This unassuming little place is a gastronomic gem, serving just four dishes for each course (the sign of a very good French restaurant according to our guide), but absolutely nailing them. My melange of mushrooms wouldn’t have been out of place in a Michelin-starred London restaurant.

Stay

For a location like no other, with the best ski-in/ski-out, brand new opening Ÿnÿcio is an excellent choice. The hotel is South American in style and inspired by Argentinian haciendas, which sounds very odd in the French Alps, but the warming burnt orange tones and tactile soft furnishings against the brilliant white backdrop through the floor-to-ceiling windows really works.

It’s part of Les Montagnettes group, with sister hotel The Taos also in Tignes, and the main draw of this new hotel is that the rooms are all apartment style, with bedrooms and bathrooms all coming off a large central main lounge and kitchen area. This works so well for skiing, which is often a group affair and multi-generational families and groups of friends will particularly love the set up.

You can combine self-catering with the convenience of à la carte restaurant dining here, thanks to the on site restaurant Bazurto, that serves breakfast and dinner with amazing views over the Grande Motte Glacier. There’s a spa on the ground floor too, with a swimming pool, sauna, steam room and al fresco hot tub for those afternoons when you need to give your thighs a break from carving up the slopes.

There are 190 rooms (divided up into 33 flats) and everything is very smart, but in a pared-back minimalist way, rather than being high end luxe, with a few fun touches like straw sombrero light shades.

room at ynycio — Credit: Studio Bergoend

My room had an ensuite shower, plump bed and was larger than many rooms I’ve stayed in while skiing. If I was nitpicking it was almost too hot (you’ll want to open the window to let some of that -18c cool air in) and the lack of storage for all my bulky skiwear meant I lived out of my suitcase the whole trip.

ski room at ynycio — Credit: Studio Bergoend

When it comes to the reason you’re in Tignes though, Ynycio has it 100% sorted. There’s a toasty warm boot room on the lowest level with large lockers for skis and snowboards and heated boot rails. Directly outside this room is access to the ski area via a short green run down to three of the most popular lifts in Tignes (the cable car to the glacier, Le Bollin chairlift to access Val D’Isère, and Tichot chairlift that takes you to the Aiguille Percée).

The Local Lowdown

Local resident Coralie L’Enfant directed us to Grizzly’s Bar in Val Claret for lunch one day to try out what has to be France’s best croque monsieur. Bring your appetite because after a full morning’s skiing even the grown men in our party were defeated by the cheesy, béchamel-sauce oozing tower of delight.

How to get there

Premium apartments for 2 – 4 people at Ynycio Hotel in Tignes Val Claret start from €1541.05 for a week. Muddy flew with British Airways from London Heathrow to Geneva, return tickets start from £38 one way. For more info on Tignes, visit tignes.net.

Moonbiking costs €70 per person for 30 min, and ice floating costs €50 per person by day (before 6pm) and €65 per person by night (from 6pm) for an hour. Both activities can be booked with Evolution 2.

Muddy hired skis and equipment with Intersport in Tignes Le Lac and ski passes for the Espace Killy area cost €63 per day for adults/ €53 for children, or €378 per week for adults/ €318 for children.

Snow business! On top of the world in Tignes

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