THE LOWDOWN

exterior view of the white hart hotel Lincoln

If you haven’t been to Lincoln before then you’re in for a treat. It’s a stunner of a city staycation! If you have been before though, you’ll know that Bailgate at the top of Steep Hill and home to the wow-factor Lincoln Cathedral that dates from 1072 and the 900-year-old Norman Castle, built in 1068 by William the Conqueror, is hands-down the chicest part of the city. And, it’s in this premium postcode that you’ll find the newly renovated White Hart Hotel, a building dating back to the 14th century that has been central to uphill Lincoln life since it was built as a lodgings house for Richard II’s visit back in 1386 and that’s now a bougie bolthole with a buzzing bar and smart restaurant.

That’s just the start of the historical pedigree of this hotel though. In 1915 Sir William Tritton and Major MG Wilson secretly designed the first ever Military Tank at the hotel (you can now hold private meeting or dine in the Tank Room) and other well-known visitors include King Edward VIII, Princess Alice, Richard Todd, Omar Sharif, Princess Anne, Margaret Thatcher, Andrew Lloyd Webber, Elton John, and Tom Hanks. These famous faces now line the corridors of the hotel in between pieces of contemporary art. With 49 beautiful rooms and suites fit for a king it’s no wonder the hotel attracts A-Listers and weekend escapers alike.

The hotel might be an historical grand dame, but there’s nothing stuffy about a stay here. Since 2022 every inch has been/ is in the process of being modernised and it now pairs period charm with modern aesthetics to perfection. The real USP though is the location… with the cathedral looming above the hotel to the back, the castle walls poking over the roofs to the front and the gorgeous boutiques and traditional shops of cobbled Bailgate all around.

THE VIBE

There’s no doubting the historic kerb appeal of this hotel but as soon as you step across the fancy red carpet through the revolving doors you’re transported to the golden age of cocktails, good service and elegant interiors. The new 1930s-style Colonnade Cocktail Bar, full of gilded touches, mirrored walls, soft lighting and red leather, is right at the entrance and has an exclusive, yet-welcoming members’ club feel to it.

We arrived on a Friday night to an absolutely buzzing vibe with live music and the heady sound of clinking champagne glasses. The reception is quieter, tucked to the side of the entrance in a lovely little snug and after a slick and friendly check-in we quickly dropped our bags in our room and came straight back down to the bar to bag a seat right in the middle of the action. It’s clear that since its renovation, the White Hart has become the must-visit institution it was back in its heyday.

The bar continues on a mezzanine level with more plush velvet and rattan touches and a wall of records next to a jukebox. Everything about the style and the vibe encourages you to let your hair down and have a good time, but in a truly elegant way. With barmen expertly shaking cocktails and people dressed up smartly for dates it’s infectiously fun and classy. You probably wouldn’t blink twice if Poirot sauntered up to the bar and ordered a sirop, n’est ce pas?

the bar at antlers restaurant in Lincoln

The elegant, yet easy-going vibe continues throughout the hotel which is also home to a chic destination restaurant, called Antlers, where you’ll find parquet flooring, eye-catching mix of artworks and plush banquette seating. There are also some smart spaces for city weddings, including the King Richard II suite, the light-filled Royal Courtyard or the more intimate The Bailgate. Even the toilets with their stylish tiles, cool gold taps and Elemis toiletries were a lovely place to hang out.

PILLOW TALK

The bedrooms are much more muted affairs than the public spaces with less jewel tones and more calming autumnal colours. The effect is very pleasing and makes for a more relaxing vibe. We stayed in a Superior Room with an adjoining Cosy Room on the first floor of the hotel. Both included complimentary local gins and gingerbread men, which went down a treat after the hard climb up Steep Hill the next day.

All rooms have tea and coffee making facilities and a seating and desk space, while some have little extra luxuries like Nespresso machines. We loved the clean modern monochrome bathrooms (the one that came with the cosy room was huge and included a standalone bathtub), and the Elemis products and fluffy white towels.

The beds were cloud-soft and full of plump, decadent pillows and crisp white linens, so once we were asleep we slept like babies. I say “once we were asleep” though as our rooms were on the side of the hotel overlooking Eastgate, a road with a couple of bars on it, so noise from late night drinkers was a bit of a problem. I’d ask for a room at the front or back of the hotel next time to be sure of a bit of peace and quiet. One noise we really didn’t mind though was the lovely chime of Lincoln Cathedral’s bells – reminding us of the special setting we were staying in.

Celebrating or just feel like splashing out? There are two suites at the White Hart Lincoln – The King Edward Suite and The Brownlow Suite, and both have amazing views of the Cathedral and multiple spaces to spread out into.

SCOFF & QUAFF

On the first night of our stay after a two hour drive we were gasping for a cocktail and headed straight to The Colonnade Cocktail Bar for a strawberry daiquiri and a G&T. We decided we were peckish too and there was no fuss about our lack of booking, (we found the staff to be very amenable and relaxed like this throughout our whole stay).

cocktails at a bar in Lincoln with blurred background

The bar serves a light menu of salads, pizzas and burgers and as it was the height of summer we went for a couple of salads – salmon Niçoise and chicken Caesar with chips, which came out quickly and were crisp and tasty.

The star of the show here though is the all-new Antlers Restaurant, which opened in December 2023 and is already on the map as one of the finest places to eat in Lincoln. The setting is suitably swish – panelled walls with an electric mix of modern art, cute re-chargable Pooky lamps on the tables and the perfect smattering of gilding, marble and leather to give it that luxury look. From the outside it reminded me of a posh candle or fragrance shop, think The White Company or Jo Malone, but inside it’s a lot cosier and has a good buzz to it.

The food from chefs Matt Porada and Thadi Crook matches its setting perfectly, with elegant plates of seasonal and locally-sourced food that aren’t too fussy but that still work well if you’re treating yourself.

We enjoyed a starter of super fresh English asparagus with bubble & squeak, followed by a lovely light mushroom stroganoff with a surprising but perfect kick to it and pan seared turbot with broth, summer vegetables and smoked oil that went down very well with my notoriously fussy plus one.

For dessert I indulged my inner child and chose ‘The Fairground’, one of those fancy deconstructed numbers that included posh takes on candy floss, churros, toffee apple, popcorn, and marshmallow. It was a complete triumph and a heavenly way to end my meal.

Across the table my guest chose the Chocolate Textures with macadamia, Pedro ximenez and malt after seeing another diner swoon over it earlier on. Unsurprisingly, it went down very well indeed.

After a day’s shopping and sightseeing we were dead on our feet, but had I had more energy at this point I would have headed straight to the wood-panelled Gibson Bar, a stylish snug just across from Reception, for a nightcap. It definitely feels like the sort of place that one should enjoy a digestif! The bar is named after Guy Gibson, a famous wing commander from the local Dambusters Squadron, and there are lots of little references to this important historical event if you love to learn as you drink!

Breakfast the next day was back in Antlers, where it’s part buffet, part à la carte. My French toast was delicious and my guest enjoyed a full English (there are both veggie and meat options). The service at breakfast was noticeably more relaxed than at dinner, but this worked well to make the dinner feel really special and the mornings to feel more easy going.

Lunch and afternoon tea are also available at Antlers Restaurant and we heard Sunday Lunch is well worth booking a table for. Finally, there’s a smart looking private dining room off the back of the restaurant that would be a chic choice for a special birthday or anniversary.

KID FRIENDLY?

Yes, with adjoining rooms and suites available the hotel definitely has space for children and brilliantly children up to the age of 16 stay for free in their parent’s room. However, with the cocktail bar and upmarket 1930s members’ club vibes it felt much more of an adult option – perfect for romantic getaways or, as in my case, a mother-daughter shopping spree weekend.

DOG FRIENDLY?

Very! We saw (and heard!) many dogs during our stay and loved that they were so welcome. There’s a cost of £20 per dog per night and only certain rooms in the hotel are dog friendly.

ACCESSIBLE?

The hotel is old and has a quirky layout so isn’t an obvious choice if you have access needs and that’s before you consider the fact that it’s at the top of Lincoln’s Steep Hill, a very accurately named street, where there are cobblestones in every direction! There are two steps up to the main entrance of the hotel, and there is a lift inside, but all rooms are on the upper levels.

ANYTHING ELSE?

georgian style townhouse holiday let Lincoln

The White Hart Lincoln also owns a magnificent looking Georgian townhouse just around the corner that has been converted into a super slick holiday let. No.7 Castle Hill is a Grade II-listed townhouse that can sleep up to 8 guests in luxurious style. The views down Steep Hill and out over the Castle square, where regular markets are held must be sublime too. There’s a kitchen, lounge and cinema room, but you don’t have to cook if you prefer to walk across the cobbles to the hotel instead.

The new owner of the hotel, Andrew Long, has also snapped up the Judge’s Lodgings next door, another wow-factor Georgian masterpiece. This is currently being renovated alongside the hotel’s car park (directly in front of the hotel) so parking and staying here will be much slicker soon. Currently guests have to pay to use one of the four council car parks within walking distance.

Other plans in the pipeline include a cool roof terrace and ‘Sky Lounge’ with views over Lincoln Cathedral and the city as well as a new 11m Indoor Vitality Pool and Spa, including gym and sauna facilities that will be located on the ground floor level of the Eastgate Coach House Wing. The swimming pool works will be completed at some point in 2025. Watch this space.

THINGS TO DO

There’s so much to see and do in Lincoln that you could stay here for a weekend and only just have scratched the surface. We were amazed by the incredible history on the doorstep and spent our first morning at Lincoln Castle, where there was a special jousting event. We walked the external walls enjoying the sights of the city and visited the Victorian Prison, where Living History actors really brought the stories to life and scared us somewhat with their accurate reenactments. We were also amazed to discover one of only four remaining copies of the Magna Carta on site and enjoyed re-learning the history of this document in the smart new vault and learning centre.

facade of Lincoln Cathedral with blue skies

The castle on its own would be more than enough to excite even the biggest of history buffs, but just across the square there’s the imposing Lincoln Cathedral too, so this city really is a wonderful escape if you want to soak up a lot of culture in a short space of time. With our brains fit to bursting we joined a cathedral tour and learned yet more fascinating facts about this gem of a city.

inside Lincoln Cathedral looking down the nave

Even if you don’t join a tour, it’s well worth a look around this magnificent building, plus there’s a gorgeous little sun trap garden in the Cloisters full of wild flowers and deckchairs as well as a smart café and tempting gift shop.

Of course, taking on Steep Hill is a rite of passage for any visitor to Lincoln and luckily the cobbled street is full of the nicest collection of indie boutiques with everything from fudge shops and ice cream parlours to cute clothes boutiques and interiors havens. Bring a credit card because we spent an awful lot more than we planned to! Turn right out the hotel down Bailgate and there are yet more boutiques as well as lovely pubs, restaurants and rooftop bars.

At the bottom of the hill you’ll find more mainstream brands and shops as well as a smart new waterside shopping area. We stopped for lunch at Stokes High Bridge Café Lincoln, on the only Medieval bridge in England with houses still on it and enjoyed tea and sandwiches in a beautiful beamed room overlooking the river.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: City escapes, history-filled weekends, shopping sprees and romantic getaways. It’s a real chance to step back in time to a happy, cocktail-filled and care-free period that’s all about indulgence and feeling spoiled. As locations go too, there’s nowhere better.

Not for: This is a real city break hotel, so don’t expect a garden to sun bathe in. The main bar isn’t flooded with natural light so on a hot summer’s day wouldn’t be a natural choice, although with plans for a roof terrace and the cathedral gardens round the corner there are options if it’s blue sky views you seek.

THE DAMAGE

Very reasonable considering the prime position with cosy doubles starting from £109 on a B&B basis per night.

White Hart Hotel, Bailgate, Lincoln, LN1 3AR

Review: White Hart Hotel, Lincoln

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