THE LOWDOWN

The Crown in Bildeston has quite the reputation in and around Suffolk – it always seems to be up there in the top three pubs when I ask foodie friends where they go for top-notch local fare and you’ll always find it on any decent round-up of Suffolk pubs and boutique places to stay in the media. So it had a lot to live up to when I visited for a stay one Saturday in October, and it’s safe to say it surpassed all expectations.

The nearby Nedging Hall Estate (owners of Mauldons Brewery, The Lindsey Rose and The Brewers Tap in Sudbury) bought the management of The Crown back in June 2022 marking a new chapter in its 500-year-old history. Since then the gastropub, which has 13 indulgent rooms and sits proudly on the high street in gorgeous Bildeston, has had a complete but sympathetic revamp that has made it feel luxe and up-to-date while retaining all the original charm.

That charm comes in the form of period features galore – think low beams, huge old fireplaces, secret staircases, creaky floors and cosy corners to curl up with a book. As we found it’s heavenly in winter, but would work just as nicely in summer thanks to its four beautiful courtyards and terraces and well tended-to gardens. There’s a huge car park too, which might sound like a boring thing to mention, but having squeezed my car into plenty of too tight spaces in many Suffolk villages before, it was a delight to start my stay in Bildeston with such ease.

THE VIBE

Just the sort of vibe you’d hope for from the historic exterior… the inside is all warming tones, exposed bricks, wooden floors and a seemingly endless rabbit warren of rooms and characterful spaces to discover. If you’re looking for a bucolic Suffolk escape that gives you the sense of stepping back in time then this is the place for you.

When we arrived it was very quiet and sleepy inside with roaring fires and large chairs that were just made for curling up in with a good book, but as the afternoon wore on locals and foodies arrived by the car-load and before we knew it the bar was buzzing and every table in the restaurant was full.

The acoustics were perfect – creating that magical hum that only happens when friends are enjoying excellent food together, quaffing wine and putting the world to rights. It wasn’t too loud, but we didn’t feel like we were being overheard either.

STAY

The 13 rooms are in the process of being updated and are divided into three categories – Luxury, Superior and Classic. We were in a newly renovated Luxury room, number 10, and it certainly lived up to its name with thick, plush curtains, a smart sumptuous carpet, a gorgeous colour scheme and plenty of space. There was a quirky little walkthrough to a wow-factor bathroom with a beautiful black studded bath beneath a quirky eye-catching painting of a horse and a huge power shower that could easily fit two…!

It’s one of those special places that makes you feel at home as soon as your step over the threshold. And, with a TV opposite the bed and coffee and tea tray, we enjoyed a lazy and indulgent late afternoon relaxing in a room that is so much more than just somewhere to sleep. Talking of shuteye, our room was at the front of the hotel with views over the road, but it’s such an off-the-beaten track village that we didn’t hear a thing and enjoyed a restful night’s sleep.

SCOFF & QUAFF

The restaurant area of The Crown has recently been updated to make it much less formal and relaxed, and the new look (a quirky collection of antique chairs, green leather banquettes and different sized wooden tables) works perfectly with the building. Various shelves and nooks are full of antique books, curiosities and little treasures and there’s an eye-catching wine wall full of impressive offerings. We started off our evening across the corridor in the bar with a couple of G&Ts and you can stay and eat in here if you want a more relaxed setting or have a dog with you. Local drinks brands include the estate’s own Mauldons ale and the wine list has apparently been tasted and vetted by the 29-year-old General Manager, George Bonwick, the son of chef Simon Bonwick and who has worked in both Tom Kerridge’s Hand & Flowers and William Drabble’s Aubergine.

The restaurant is divided up into several different areas and we were delighted with our table for two right next to the beautiful open fire and mullioned windows. Foodies will rejoice when they see the menu, which is small but perfectly formed, and focusses strongly on The Crown’s new estate-to-plate offering, a hyper-local style of cooking using ingredients from the 5,000 acre Nedging Estate.

Starters included a seasonal soup, a parmesan and black pepper risotto, smoked haddock fish cake and pork and pistachio terrine, but we both plumped for the slow roast beetroot with goat’s curd, croutons and pickles after a suggestion from a knowledgeable member of staff. In fact, all the staff we encountered knew their stuff and seemed proud to work in such a well-known foodie destination. It turned out to be an excellent suggestion… the starter was a work of art and tasted as good as it looked – a perfect combination of earthy beetroot, tangy goat’s curd and acidic pickle.

For the main event we chose venison from the estate served with crown prince squash and pickled walnut and a vegetarian gnocchi with salsify, ricotta, fried sage and lemon. Other mains included brill on the bone, grilled plaice, Chicken Kiev and flat iron steak, but don’t get too wed to any of these as the menu changes with the seasons.

Both our choices went down very well indeed, although as with all excellently flavoured and elegant food we found ourselves in need of elasticated waistbands by the end of the main, with room for only one dessert between us. But what a dessert it was! Our spoons fought over a dark chocolate mousse made from local Tosier chocolate with banana and milk ice cream. Pure heaven on a plate.

After a lovely night’s sleep we headed back down to the restaurant, still feeling quite full, for breakfast in the now light-flooded restaurant. In my opinion breakfasts when you’re away should always come in the form of a menu and table service, rather than having to elbow your way to the front of a buffet, and I was delighted to see that this was the low-key and luxurious approach taken by The Crown. We ordered a croissant and granola yoghurt bowl as well as Eggs Royale washed down with tea and coffee and it was just the ticket to set us up for a morning walk around the beautiful Bildeston countryside.

KID FRIENDLY?

Yes, The Crown describes itself as family friendly and kids would be more than welcome, plus there’s a kid’s menu. However, unless you have kids who love wearing tweed, sit still at the table, and say things like “ooh I love girolles” I’d probably keep The Crown as a special adults-only destination, where you retreat for good food, a dreamy ambience and wine without an “h” in it. There are a couple of private dining rooms (see more below) if you want the relaxation of dining with kids while giving them the freedom to run around and play hide and seek under the table!

DOG FRIENDLY?

Yes. Dogs are welcome in the bar and of course in all the outside spaces in summer. There are three dog friendly rooms that you can stay in too, plus miles of walks straight from the front door to enjoy.

ACCESSIBLE?

There is wheelchair access to the pub from the back, however as the building dates back to 1495 it’s very quirky and not particularly suited to wheelchairs, plus there’s no lift or ground floor rooms.

ANYTHING ELSE?

The Crown would be a wonderful choice for a private party, special event or even a small wedding with its three characterful private dining rooms off the main restaurant. The Kennedy Room seats 16, Ingrams seats 38 and The Suffolk Room seats 12.

OUT AND ABOUT

The village is small, but full of covetable cottages and houses and with a village shop and plenty of walks to enjoy. Slightly further afield you’ll find top Suffolk tourist spots such as the postcard-pretty medieval wool town of Lavenham, lovely Long Melford with it antiques shops and Bury St Edmunds, a wonderful historic market town for mainstream and indie shopping and lots of cultural attractions.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

fireplace with fire on and two chairs at the Bildeston Crown

Good for: Foodies will be in their element here with a menu that takes field-to-fork up a level in the form of estate-to-plate. It’s all about understated luxury, nothing showy or bling. Instead you’ll find pared-back high quality country interiors that wouldn’t look out of place on the cover of Country Life. While it’s family friendly, we thought it worked best for adults – the perfect escape to the country.

Not for: If you like clean lines, symmetrical walls and glitz and glamour when you go away this isn’t for you.

The damage: From £190 per night.

The Crown, 104 High Street, Bildeston, Suffolk, IP7 7EB. Tel: 01449 740510

Review: The Crown, Bildeston

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